Weekend at the Škrabec Homestead
There was no time for breakfast. Since we had Eliza, the most important thing is that she has her breakfast. We'll be OK without it. Although we stayed out late last night, we set out to make it to Hrovača by Saturday, 11 a.m. We’ll manage without our breakfast. The day was beautiful with sunshine all the way. Driving through dark green forests, I imagined how it would be when I was driving through here for the first time. What would I think about? I remember the eldely Contessa Anita Scheel von Plessen whom I met in Denmark. Years ago, when I picked her up with my old Clio at Ljubljana Airport to drive her to the coast at the peak of the summer heat, with no air conditioning in the car, she remarked while we drove through the forests very much like these: "Nice woods, a lot of bears." There must be a lot of them here for sure. The path to Hrovača and Ribnica takes forever … or not. Maybe I’m just starving. In Velike Lašče I point Klemen toward the bakers shop at the Pri Kuklju Inn. While turning, I came running back to the car with a bag of donuts. Those were really delicious, like sweet cloud wisps that melt in your mouth. I chose to indulge in these even when it wasn’t Shrove Tuesday. Klemen was disappointed for not having brought more. I promised him a good lunch in Hrovača – I knew exactly where I was taking him.
Peter awaited us in Hrovača in front of the Boštjan house. A scorpion tatoo is displayed proudly on his arm, making him look tough, but Peter wouldn't tread on an ant. He is the best landlord of the Škrabec Homestead: caring, hospitable and attentive. He maintains good relations with his fellow villagers as he is an extremely warm, amiable person and, above all, as Klemen would say, a great guy. Allegedly, all the ladies of Hrovača are eager to accept him as a son-in-law for his diligence and hard work. Peter lives close to the Škrbec Homestead and really feels at home there. Although I’m quite familiar with it too, this is the first time I was visiting as a tourist – and I liked that very much.
It's amazing how much luggage a little girl younger than 18 months old can have. Our friend Urban drove by while I was bringing our stuff into the house, on his way to his mother’s house to cut the grass several houses away. We were delighted by ran dom meetings outside Ljubljana. He was coming for a beer tonight, but we were paying him a visit before then. Peter had prepared the Hayloft Room for us on the top floor on the right. Of all the wonderful rooms, this one is really special. After the renovation, the Hayloft Room was built as an extension of the house above the current kitchen, where the stable once used to be. According to modern living standards, the room is spacious and bright and has an anteroom with an office and an additional bed. There are wooden wicker sieves hanging from the ceiling – the most prominent item of Ribnica wooden wares. Once the room gets dark and the lights come on, the floor vibrates under the reflections of these sieves – producing a really fascinating effect. At the end of the room, there are two “Rex” chairs as a subtle reference to Niko Kralj, the Slovene architect and designer. The room had a cosy bathroom with a big shower, in which Eliza loves to test her vocal skills. We made a quick decision – Eliza would sleep in the foyer, so we could have some peace. Of course, she liked the bean bag chair in our room best, jumping tirelessly on it. She also enjoyed looking through the balcony door, and her mouth spreads into an incredible "Wow" every time she hears a rooster crowing outside. Klemen decided to make a couple of shots of the room, and I was waiting for him at the door. We still had to pay Urban a short visit, go out to buy groceries and, of course, have lunch.
The Spar store was nearby and we could easily buy everything we needed. Milk for Eliza and beer for Urban – and, of course, a few snacks. On my way back to the house, I took Klemen and Eliza to the Pri Andoljšku Inn, called Lobanj’ca by the locals. The locals gave the inn this name (meaning skull) because it is situated adjacent to the cemetery. In Hrovača there are obviously no taboos, and it seems it’s different in the villages than in the big cities, because you know exactly where you end up. And if the inn is good, you'll go there – whether to a post-funeral meal or to a wedding. Peter recently invited his guests there to celebrate his 50th birthday. Ms Vera told us that she had been doing everything by herself since that day when the young ones left for Ljubljana. Nevertheless, she easily managed to prepare a genuine Saturday lunch. Vera is an excellent cook, although completely alone in the inn, which doesn’t mean one has to wait forever to be served. On that particular day, she offered two menus – meat and potatoes or pizza. Both of us chose the first menu and soon I was happy and nostalgic to observe hand-peeled potatoes cut into thin and thicker pieces. We hadn't had a homemade meal like that for a long time. So delicious was it that we easily forgot we only had donuts for breakfast. We were sitting out on the terrace while Eliza was running in circles in and out of the house. Peter came by, and we agreed on a guided tour of the homestead once we had finished our lunch. Proud that I had taken my family on a trip, I decided to settle the lunch bill which was so cheap that we occasionally still mention it. It reminds me of the times before the euro was introduced, when we still had tolars, the old Slovene currency. I admit, however, that in the end, Klemen settled the bill with cash, as credit cards are all I carry in my wallet, and Ms Vera doesn’t accept them – probably for nostalgia’s sake.
She shyly apologized, “You know, we’re more country folk here”. While looking for change, as Klemen obviously couldn’t find enough of it in his wallet, I comforted her that we too live a small town. A young lad sitting at the bar is kind enough to help tourists in need, offering 20 cents. How nice people are here, I think. Well, I’m actually not surprised as it turned out in the end that this young boy is none other than Peter's son Gašper.
Before the tour of the homestead, Peter introduced us to his neighbour who keeps chickens, rabbits and cows. The hospitable villagers of Hrovača invited us to their gardens without hesitation, amidst their animals, their eyes glowing with pride. Small villages are really places overflowing with generosity. Eliza is thrilled and stunned. So many animals!
The tour led us to the Kersnič smithy, where it is pleasantly cool despite the heat outside. I added to Peter's explanation that exhibitions are occasionally held here, although the place is currently mostly used to receive guests staying in the Boštjan house. Then we visited the old homestead where you can still smell the traditional “black kitchen”. The local brick oven is fired every day, as our chef Nik still prepares delicious dishes there. Klemen is positively surprised by well-kept records of the renovation of the homestead, and I am impressed by Peter, who knows so much about everything. He can also be very gentle with Eliza. When she gets bored and starts moaning, he gives her his bunch of keys and holds her arm saying “Now you’re unlocking the doors for us!”
The whole Škrabec Homestead complex is truly breathtaking. We ended our tour in the renovated Barn, where Klemen and I like to attend monthly evening events. After the tour, Peter said goodbye and left and we lay down on neatly cut grass by the hayrack. Peter cuts it every day so it's soft and serves as a comfortable rug. Eliza explored my tummy button and blowed into my belly, while Klemen and I were simply happy to be together and have a good time.
We took a stroll to Ribnica, to the castle where a wedding was in full swing. We spent more than an hour and a half stopping for a drink in the shade by the river Bistrica. Because we could. Ribnica is a small town with a great character. It has an old town centre and a neat castle with a stream flowing past, so it has everything big cities have. We also intended to visit the Handicrafts Centre, which is a must when visiting Ribnica. However, carelessly sitting and bathing in the sun, we finally missed it.
While bathing Eliza in the evening, Nik came knocking on the door. Nik is a down-to-earth jack-of-all-trades handyman, assuming the roles of chef and IT specialist. His delicious dishes always have a local touch, bringing a combnation of modernity and tradition. They are not merely delicious, but also carefully arranged, involving elements of traditional Ribnica wooden wares. Nik’s suppliers are mostly the riends and acquaintances he trusts. He knows many people in Ribnica and I have a strong feeling they love him very much. Whenever we post something about him on social media, every post is followed by a ton of likes. To be honest – he’s also very handsome. Nik hides his years very well and when I first met him, I couldn’t believe that he’s a father of three. This time he came to visit with his oldest son. He told me that he always involves the children in cooking. They help wash and peel vegetables and those sorts of tasks. This gives them the opportunity to spend time together, when he and his wife Mateja are busy catering. We drank beer together in the kitchen, and Urban joined us some time later. As it was a pleasant evening, we moved to the terrace, where the evening light caressed the freshly mown lawn on which we had rolled in the afternoon. Soft sounds of evergreen music could be heard from the kitchen. Everybody was saying their farewells. Eliza was already asleep, and we were both looking forward to going to bed too.
Leaving the balcony door open, the crowing of the neighbour’s rooster woke me up at 4 a.m. At night, I don’t find its crowing very pleasant. Well, Peter had warned us about this early wake-up call. I guess, we should have closed the door. But that logical thought didn’t occur to me at night. In the morning I woke up rested, and Klemen had a fever. That kind of thing also happens. Unfortunately, we had to cancel our climb to Saint Anna, but that gives us all the more reason to come back.
In the morning we slowly packed our things and headed for lunch at the Harlekin Inn and Pizzeria in Ribnica. The car park was full of cars and the waiters let us know that all the tables were taken. That could mean only one thing. On the way back to Ljubljana we stopped (again) at the Pri Kuklju Inn.
The food there is absolutely delicious, especially the rolled dumplings. Rolled dumplings, like the donuts, are two things you absolutely have to sample. I am happy to order traditional local food, which perfectly rounds off our experience in this region. Klemen has a sweet tooth and rolled dumplings are his weak spot. He especially prefers those from the Dolenjska region, and Eliza, too, cries out desperately for more when she tastes them. The staff are very friendly and accommodating, and they’re especially fond of our little “explorer”. I can understand them perfectly.
Satiated, content and bursting with impressions, we made our way home. We’ll definitely come to Hrovača again – this time without Eliza but with friends. The Boštjan house has enough rooms for four couples. Nick will cook dinner for us. Maybe to celebrate my birthday ...
